“Taste the traditional food of Kerala” says the poster at the entrance of this little eatery called ‘Taste of Kerela,’ which is tucked into a narrow lane in Fort, Mumbai. Granted, it isn’t exactly easy to find, but the food certainly makes up for its unfortunate location. If you are an avid seafood buff, but cannot afford to make a weekly trip to TOK’s marginally expensive neighbour, Mahesh Lunch Home, then this is definitely the place for you.
Once you get past the vibrant poster, there’s a fairly simple colour scheme that greets you as you step inside. Given the humidity this season, I chose to sit upstairs in a small area cordoned off as the ‘Air conditioned seating area’ which was equipped to accommodate about 6 parties. Of course, this meant missing out on being able to smell the irresistible aroma of the coconutty goodness emerging from the partially open kitchen on the bottom floor, but the seating arrangement upstairs was cosy enough. This quick and painless seating decision may also have had something to do with the fact that my primary concern at the time was an empty stomach as opposed to an empty booth next to the window.
Being a seafood fanatic, one look at the menu had me extremely eager to place my order. I was also impressed to find a few Punjabi and Chinese options on the menu, for the benefit of those who aren’t really interested in Taste of Kerala’s primary cuisine. But I wasn’t prepared to leave without getting a taste of the coast down under.
I ordered the vegetarian thaali, a portion of Fish Nadan curry (Karimeen), Taste of Kerala special chicken, Prawn masala and Clam (Kakka) Sukha, a few Malabari paronthas and an Appam. One thing that disappointed me though, was that a few of the items such as crab and beef that were present on the menu were not available on that particular day.
The vegetarian Thaali is quite the popular choice at Taste of Kerela. It consists of sambhar, rice, potatoes, beans and Malabari paronthas. Since it’s prepared in bulk, the dish, put together neatly on an attractive green banana leaf is served very promptly. It is a suitable option for those who work around the area and are looking for a quick bite during their lunch breaks.
I was pleased to find that the service was very efficient. The rest of the food appeared within minutes of the thaali. The fish curry was the colour of a warning signal, lathered in an extremely spicy looking curry. My first bite confirmed the egregious amounts of heat in the dish. The curry was of a light, paste-like consistency with the delicate flavour of coconut that I had been longing for. As in most recipes from Kerala, the spices went impeccably well with the coconut.
Then came the Taste of Kerala special Chicken. The creamy ochre curry was not very spicy, which is not to say that it was bland. It definitely tickled the tongue, but that was masked by the mildness of the cream. Interestingly, it also leaves an after taste of kadhi patta that envelops the mouth for a while.
The prawns were the greatest disappointment on that table. When I was told that they had a choice between shrimp and jumbo prawns, I was pretty impressed. Jumbo prawns may have a certain crunch to them, but nothing beats the pungent, yet smooth flavour that comes from shrimp. But when the dish was placed before me, I was gravely disenchanted not only by the way it looked, but also the lack of shrimp in a ‘Prawn masala’ dish. However, when I waded through the thick layer of oil with a spoon, I realized that I had in fact been served shrimp the size of the nail bed on my little finger. The ‘masala’ part of it was decent. Heavily loaded with red chilly and kadhi patta, this dish was substandard and far from what I had been expecting.
When you order clams, scallops, crab or even lobster, half the fun in the experience of eating shellfish is in the shelling. Where is the excitement when someone hands you a plate of shelled clams or crab? The shelled clam sukkha appeared and it took me a while, but I managed to move past the lack of shells on my plate. The sukkha masala, which is meant to be dry, nutty and smooth, enveloped the meat. The saltiness of the clams and the tang of the masala made for a wonderful combination that I would definitely order again. Maybe next time, I can even request them to leave the shells on. The Appam and paronthas were great. They were soft and quite large too. Three paronthas, priced at a low rate of Rs 7 per parontha, are more than enough for an individual.
The ambience is warm and homely, like most simple lunch homes. Most of the food is authentic and delicious, when it is available, of course. Although, I’d like to lay a little more emphasis on the fact that the shrimp at this place is not exactly value for money. The service is informal and extremely quick, which is an advantage to those who aren’t particularly amused by the ambience.
On a
scale of 1 to 5, this is how I would rate Taste of Kerala:
- · Food – 3.7
- · Ambience – 2.5
- · Service – 4
- · Overall Experience – 3.4
Taste
of Kerala will not hand you five sets of cutlery and ask you to work your way
in. So, if you’re looking for a fine dining experience with a similar cuisine,
I suggest you stick to places such as Dakshin Coastal at ITC Maratha, Mumbai or
The Spice Route at The Imperial in Delhi.










